Colombia so far

Sunsets, empty beaches and great coffee have been the highlights so far after my first week in Colombia. On a visit to a coffee farm, the tour was taken by the owner, a most enthralling lady with an incredible family story. Her name was Sylvia and her parents in law left Germany after the Second World War to go to Central America. She was born in Mexico and on board a ship going to Colombia she met her future husband when she was just a baby! After the death of her parents-in-law she took over the running of the coffee farm (near Taganga) with her husband and it remains her passion today.

 

The week ended with hiking in Tayrona National Park, which I used as a ‘warm up’ for next week’s challenge, the trek to The Lost City. The heat and humidity will make it the toughest hike I have tackled I think. Watch this space...!

Being not doing

My last couple of days have had lovely surprises - a heavy downpour whilst walking to a waterfall, hummingbirds feeding from the balcony where I sat having my breakfast, and hammocks - perfect for those afternoon siestas!

Up, up & away!

I love flying, although after four airports, three flights & two borders, I kind of had my fill yesterday!  There’s something about seeing our world from the air, whether it’s an ocean, mountain range or city. My favourite though is to fly above the clouds - sometimes cotton wool like, other times like wisps of white candy floss. I remember my Grandad (Gandi to those of you who also had the privilege to know him) saying to me ‘never stop exploring.’ So I won’t. 

After all the airport fun, I arrived in Cartagena (think ‘Romancing the Stone’ which was filmed here) with a lightening storm out to sea and even though it was early evening, the temperature was still above 30 degrees, so hoping I acclimatise fast before doing ‘The Ciudad Perdida’ (Lost City Trek.) Today another film was being shot here called ‘Gemini Man’ starring Will Smith. I stumbled upon a few streets which were closed due to filming, so you never know, I may pop up in the background of a scene - a pale British tourist sweating in the sun!

 

 

 

Food glorious food

 

A quick post about the food I have been enjoying. Lots of good pasta & pizza places, plus frequent visits to the markets for fresh fruit - everything from apples, pears, bananas & grapes, to the best pineapple, mango & strawberries. I have also had my fair share of avacado - they are massive here & are super tasty on freshly baked bread. Yum!

Peru has over 300 kinds of potatoes, so as a veggie I have sampled a few in soups, rice dishes & in salads. All have been delicious! Also in lots of dishes throughout Peru & Bolivia is quinoa - again delicious in soups. My last supper in Bolivia was a huge quinoa burger in a great cafe called 'Cafe del Mundo' in La Paz.

And don’t worry, despite all the fabulous fresh fruit, juices & smoothies, I haven’t given up on the cakes & treats ; ) 

 

Lake Titicaca

My final few days in Peru were spent on Lake Titicaca, the world’s highest navigable lake at 3,800m (altitude has certainly been a theme the last few weeks!) The lake seems so vast that it feels like you’re on the ocean and the water is incredibly blue. 

I visited Taquile Island, which reminded me of the Greek islands - stunning views over the lake with such vivid colours, made brighter by the sunshine.  The boat also stopped at the remarkable Uros floating islands - islands made completely from reeds including the boats used by those that lived there and their houses.  Amazing to see how much can be done by just using natural materials and for me, a good link to forest school.

Overnight was spent with a wonderful older couple in the village of Linquina and after a great night’s sleep (only to be ended by the noisy donkey in the back garden,) I spent the morning helping with the daily chores including taking the sheep to graze, harvesting beans and potatoes, shelling the beans and drying the grain.  Not sure I would make the best farmer, but digging up the potatoes was pretty satisfying work! Not so sure I am as keen on the animals!  

A football match played against the locals, a chance to wear the traditional dress of the ladies and performing a dance with the locals topped off a great couple of days, which I feel privileged to have experienced.

 

Once in a lifetime

After the Lares trek and a welcome shower and bed (rather than a sleeping bag in a tent,) the morning had come to see one of the seven wonders of the world. I should have slept really well, but I didn’t - it was like being a child again waiting for Christmas morning! I have wanted to visit Machu Picchu for such a long time and I can honestly say when I walked through the entrance, alongside the first set of terracing and then the famous postcard view came into sight, the only word I could manage was ‘wow!’

What a way to end my second week in Peru.

 

The big one - Lares trek

So, most people opt to trek the Inca Trail, but I went for one of the alternatives, the Lares trek. Three days on a quieter route through indigenous communities and always with the Andean mountains as a backdrop. One of the reasons I love walking so much is for the solitude it can bring and on the Lares trek our group met only one other small group of tourists travelling in the opposite direction. I much preferred this than perhaps being in a long line of folk on the Inca steps!

Day one and three were shorter walking days, but the highlight for me was the challenge of day two when we started early to hike from the foothills of Sicllaccasa Mountain to its high pass at almost 4,800m. The weather was stunning and I definitely think this was one of the best days hiking I have ever had. The snickers bar I saved for the summit was also the tastiest I have had!

At our final lunch stop, I attempted to sum up the experience, so here it is:

L esser travelled path, far away
A ncient route
R ocky, steep climbs
E nigmatic llamas
S tunning summit high in the Andes

T antilising tents in sight
R ushing river winding through the valley
E nding through tangled, rust-red forests
K nocking on the door of Machu Picchu.

 

 

Rainbow Mountain

Up at 5am for the drive to the start of this day hike. It was an altitude test really to see how the body would stand up to less oxygen in anticipation for the Lares trek. Answer: all good! 

Layers of clothing came on and off as the temperature changed and although it was cold at the top, the view of the mountain was incredible. 

First week in Peru

My first week has flown by and has been filled with wonderful weather and some spectacular sights including the condors soaring above Colca Canyon, colonial cities including Arequipa, Huachacina winery visit (think fruit flavoured Baileys) and first sightings of llama and alpaca roaming in a landscape with a background of volcanoes and snow capped mountains.

 

 

As well as these experiences though, it is often the little things that bring most pleasure - arriving somewhere at night and waking up to an unexpected view, vibrant flowers growing over a rooftop, or finding fresh fruit at a local market.

Ways to get from A to B

So far this week I have travelled by boat, plane, dune buggy and a double decker night bus. Dune buggy great fun, but you get thrown about a lot, especially if you’re small and sit at the back (lesson learnt!) When I wasn’t being thrown about in the buggy, I was throwing myself down the dunes to try sandboarding. 

Took an incredible flight over the Nasca lines. The landscape is other worldly and by the time we landed, I’m not sure any of the six passengers on board felt entirely back on Earth. 

The boat was a bumpy ride too, out to what are known as the ‘mini Galápagos Islands.’ Survived the choppy water to see sea lion pups and penguins. Felt extremely lucky to have a glimpse into these creatures’ lives and homes.

 

City streets

As my first South American city experience, Lima turned out to be a good one. Easy to explore, never felt really crowded & never far from the sea. I stayed in Barranco, an old, bohemian area about 30minutes from central Lima with street art around every corner. Enjoy the pics!