One of my guilty pleasures is to get home from work, make a cuppa & enjoy a half hour episode of Michael Portillo’s train journey series! He first went roaming around the UK but once he’d exhausted our tracks, he took his pastel coloured blazers, his guidebook and his eccentricities across the Atlantic to North America.
So, inspired by one of his routes, I took the journey to Kingston where I enjoyed boats, history and more blue skies (with the exception of my final day when the heavens opened on my trek to the train station!) I went across to visit Fort Henry (although wasn’t expecting to be able to fire a canon as Michael had done!) However, I did wander into the graduation ceremony of the Royal Military College. No idea if I was supposed to be there or not, but was quite the spectacle!
The first time I saw Niagara Falls was back in 2004 when I was studying in upstate New York and then I only saw it from the US side. My hostel where I was staying this time was around a half hour walk to the falls, so after my bus from Toronto arrived around lunchtime, I dropped my bag off and ventured down, three times being asked for directions by other tourists! I would’ve thought it was obvious - follow the river!?
I reached the friendship bridge first, then the American falls, but the real ‘wow’ moment was standing at the top of the Canadian Horseshoe falls where the water cascades down - it’s mesmerising and a true display of the power and beauty of nature. I stood in the sun with a coffee watching all the people board boats to sail into the mist of the falls (something I had done in 2004.) This time I opted for the ‘journey behind the falls’ and sporting a yellow poncho (reckon the colour suits me,) you descend down in a lift and then walk along tunnels to get soaked by the power of the water - it’s brilliant!
I had three days in Niagara and as well as seeing the falls, I cycled to Niagara on the Lake; a charming town with the most stunning houses, quaint shops and cherry blossom filled parks, and also visited the botanical gardens and walked in Niagara glen. On my final evening as I walked down to the falls to see it lit up at night and to get something for dinner, the town had appeared to have been taken over by thousands of people visiting from Korea for a conference. All in matching coats and with matching backpacks, it was quite a sight! However it did mean that a special fireworks display was put on over the falls - love when unexpected things happen when you’re travelling!
After an interesting night flight from Bogota to Toronto (on which I sat next to a dog, yes a dog,) I refuelled with coffee and refreshed at Mairy’s apartment - my lovely room mate from Colombia. With the help of Trip Advisor, I quickly found a walking tour in downtown and off I went in an attempt to stay awake and soak up the sunshine. The tour was fabulously led by Adam, a chap from the north of England who married a Canadian and has made Toronto his home. I would highly recommend it - here is a link: http://torontofreewalkingtours.com/
As well as my days spent sightseeing in the city, including going to see a baseball game between the Toronto Blue Jays and Boston Red Sox, I also volunteered with the P.I.N.E Project. They are an inspiring group of people working with children and families on outdoor education. Read more about them here: https://www.pineproject.org/
As well as exploring wild, edible plants, there were lots of games, songs and a full day Masterchef style cook off competition in the forest. I was invited to be a guest judge, who had come all the way from England to try the appetisers, which the children thought was great! Pictured are the mini burrito bites which won the round - mmmm, delicious! The project’s motto ‘be more, need less’ certainly rings true with me and these children were learning resilience, independence, confidence and a respect and understanding of our natural world. It was a pleasure to be able to spend time with them and also reflect on my own educational practice.
After beautiful, sunny days exploring Ottawa, the rain clouds make an appearance and it’s perfect as I have a day of train travel to get to Quebec City. So time to sit back, relax and update you on my Canadian journey so far...
Last sunset and final morning paddle in the Caribbean.
Thank you South America for the sunshine, positive energy, delicious avocados and never rushing me - not ready to leave, but I will be back!
Heading north...
Well, after five days trekking in the ‘heart of the world’ I am enjoying things we take for granted everyday - electricity, a shower head, fresh white sheets and clean clothes. Was the walking worth it? Absolutely!
Day 1: left the comforts of Santa Marta behind for an early start to reach Machete Pelao for a filling breakfast before the 12km we would cover today. The first few hours were steep, dusty uphill sections, but with views of a lush green landscape and mountains meeting the sea. With over 80% humidity, the sweat poured off all of us! The lunch stop and snack stops of juicy watermelon were very welcome and replenished our energy.
Day 2: up at 5am and today we had some big uphill climbs as well as some downhill sections which were tough on the toes. The route took us along beautiful shady paths through the jungle, with giant trees and hanging vines - it was like Jurassic Park and I half expected a brontosaurus to come wandering into view! Welcome stops today included a river to plunge hot feet in, as well as a stop shared with the military (who now ‘guard’ the trail) for our fruit snack of sweet pineapple and oranges. Today was just as hot as the first and we all continually sweated, so a huge late lunch of pasta with salty cheese was one of the tastiest meals ever! A freezing cold shower and afternoon siesta (which I unknowingly shared with a giant bug called a machaca in my mosquito net) followed by ‘afternoon tea’ of hot popcorn & coffee made for a great end to the day.
Day 3: today was the day! After another great breakfast of fresh fruit and cheese arepas (flat corn breads,) we were off walking again. First a river crossing, then the 1200 steps up to the Lost City entrance. We had a spiritual ceremony to ask for permission to enter and then had the privelidge of exploring this ancient world hidden in this incredible landscape. Simply unforgettable.
Day 4: a short walk to a waterfall after breakfast for swimming and paddling to sooth the mosquito bites before an early lunch of soup, rice & plantain to power us through the three hour walk on steep up and down sections to our camp for the night. My legs were super tired today and I will admit I was very relieved to arrive at camp, especially for the chocolate cake & fresh berry juice we had when we got there! We were treated to a soft pink sunset over the valley whilst we waited for dinner and by 8pm I was fast asleep in my top bunk under my mosquito net.
Day 5: an early start to beat the heat, we headed out across undulating grassy hills, passing local homes and descending down to gentle streams on the way to the Gotsezhi community, where local men and women prepared a delicious lunch for us. We also learned more about the life and traditions of the Wiwa people including having a blessing from their shaman & seeing how they use the natural environment to make handicrafts. I also had to smile to myself as I watched a group of children playing football and another child climb up a tree & disappear into the canopy - not so different to children back in my neck of the woods.
Hopefully this gives you a flavour of the trek, but what I can’t put into words is the amazing group of people I was so fortunate to share this adventure with. The conversations, the card games, the friendship and most importantly the laughter made my final week in South America the best it could be.
Finally, why did I say ‘blood, sweat and tears’ in the title of this post? Well, the Colombian mosquitos definitely enjoyed my blood and I have NEVER sweat this much in my life! On reaching the Lost City we were asked to leave all negativity behind and our short group ceremony brought me to shed a few tears. There are certain places on Earth that have moved me spiritually and this was definitely one of them; a truly special place.
