Island Life

 Arran. Where to start? The walking has been exceptional. People told me it would be but until you’re here staring at the mountains in the north or the lush, green lowlands in the south, you can’t appreciate it. I spent the first half of my week walking the coastal path. 67 miles around the island in three, long days but with daylight hours being so long and the weather staying fine, it wasn’t a chore. I was joined by the constant call from the cuckoo, the song of the sky larks, the screech of the oyster catchers and was lucky enough to see dolphins, seals and otters from the shoreline. The colourful wildflowers covered the rocks and the bright, yellow gorse bushes lined the route.

The second half of my week was all about the peaks! Goatfell, the island’s highest mountain was a two hour climb up with stunning views back over Brodick and then descending into Glen Rosa with its series of falls and pools, perfect for refreshing hot feet! 

I thought it would be hard to beat Goatfell, being the highest peak on the island, but the walk up Caisteal Abhail and the views from the top were truly breathtaking. Unlike Goatfell, I saw no one for the whole four and a half hours I was walking there. 

Other walks included some circular trails near Whiting Bay, a short route to visit the Machrie standing stones and a rocky climb to visit the quiet shores of Coire Fhionn lochan. When you add the discovery of a beach bar serving gin cocktails, a shoreside wood-fired pizza parlour, clear, starry skies and a bakery with delicious pastries, Arran really does have it all. 

A truly memorable week on a truly special island. 

Crossing into Scotland

As I left the lakes and crossed into Scotland I stopped off at a place recommended by a friend, not far from Moffat. The walk was to see the ‘Grey Mare’s Tail,’ a 60m waterfall. It was a peaceful and beautiful spot and a perfect stop-over for the afternoon, which I would never have discovered had it not been for someone telling me about it.

The following day, before catching my ferry, I visited Culzean Castle perched on the Ayrshire coastline. I arrived before it opened, so parked up and had the woodlands and paths to myself, only seeing a couple of dog walkers. The walled garden and views along the coast were so colourful on a slightly grey and cloudy day. The woodland was filled with the song of the robin, blackbird, song thrush, blackcap and chiff chaff. I ended the morning with a visit to the amazing second-hand bookshop in the grounds and of course left with more books to squeeze into my book basket in the van.

With the sky darkening, it was onto Ardrossan to catch the ferry to the Isle of Arran.

Love, Love, LOVING the Lakes

What a week! After enduring the rain of Yorkshire, it seems that was my only rain to be had as everyday in the Lakes I have had beautiful, sunny days. I have walked and walked in the south near Ambleside and Bowness, around Grasmere and the Langdales and then onto my favourite area near Keswick. Lots of new peaks hiked including Helm Crag, Skiddaw, Blencathra, great horseshoe walks including Newlands and Fairfield and a glorious evening on top of Wansfell Pike. 

Again I’ve been met with great conversation up on the fells with folk who have incredible stories - one guy recovering from a heart attack climbing Fairfield, a couple recovering from operations getting back to walking, a bus driver from South Africa going through the heartache of losing his children and a chap from Norfolk who escapes to the lakes every week on his days off travelling by train! Honestly, the strength in people is amazing. I also met two ladies in Buttermere who drove me to see the bluebells at Rannerdale Knott and invited me to stay with them when I’m back this way. 

By far my best encounter though was re-meeting Sarah, who I had previously met at a pub in Bowland Bridge last September. We bonded over spaniel chat! It turns out we had booked a navigation course in Bowness on the same day eight months later - what are the chances?! It was amazing and so lovely to sit afterwards in the sun at the pub after our long day of concentrating on maps and compasses! 

So, thank you to the lakes, I’m not ready to leave but Scotland is calling…