Wednesday, 12 April 2023

Books in the Brecons

Two blog posts in a week - yep, you guessed it, rain has stopped play! 

We haven’t blown away in the wind and hail showers and waking up to see a dusting of snow on the hills (if only fleetingly before they disappeared into the clouds) was quite beautiful. Instead I am staying warm and mostly dry, getting wonderfully lost not on footpaths but in independent, unique bookshops in the towns of Hay-on-Wye, Brecon and Crickhowell. They are a real mix with some having cafes attached, others with cosy nooks and armchairs and my favourite one in the old cinema in Hay has pre-loved, second-hand selections alongside the glossy new releases. I love the smell of second-hand book shops, picking up the books and reading the blurbs, wondering who might have enjoyed them before, discovering new authors and getting lost amongst the choices.

We did manage a couple of walks up to Blorenge Mountain above Blaenavon and also up Pen y Crug above Brecon, but got completely soaked - not great when you’re relying on the hand dryers in the toilets to get stuff dry! 

Tomorrow we hope to see the sun return so that we can walk the peaks surrounding our campsite but, for today, I shall settle for the afternoon finishing two books and beginning a new one. If you’re having a rainy day too, I hope you've found an enjoyable way to spend it.

















Monday, 10 April 2023

Edge of the Land

Since my last update I have yet again found my way to the edges of Wales, drawn by the love to walk with the sound of the sea. With steep ascents and descents and amazing, turquoise coloured waters, Pembrokeshire treated us to sunny days and challenging paths. Views across to Skomer Island were a highlight, as well as walking at Strumble Head and seeing South Stack Lighthouse. A chap lent me binoculars to spot the puffins flying off from Skomer and we sat in the sun chatting about birding destinations he had visited. I couldn’t get a boat to Skomer on this trip as no dogs are allowed for obvious reasons! Definitely gives me an excuse to return to this part of the Welsh coastline though.

One of our campsites was just a short 25min walk to Freshwater West beach, the film location for Dobby’s grave for any fellow Harry Potter fans reading this. It was an incredibly beautiful stretch of beach, but sadly had so much plastic rubbish. I collected what small pieces we could and filled some dog poo bags with the array of coloured, broken and sometimes sharp objects hoping that every little might help.

Our final walk in this part of Wales was from the busy town of Tenby through woodland and meadows to Saundersfoot. It was slightly more challenging than I had thought, so decided on an ice cream treat and the bus back! 

From Pembrokeshire we headed to the Gower and despite some cloudier skies, we still were able to enjoy great walking. One day I met a friendly couple with their young toddler who was already tackling the coast path whilst clutching a flower she had picked, guarding it as her precious treasure. If only all adults still remembered to find the time to observe such small details.

Deciding on a change of scenery from the coast, one afternoon we discovered a woodland and I found a spot to hang up the hammock and enjoy the warmth of the late afternoon sunshine reading my book. Poppy of course always has to jump in the hammock too. This was also where we spotted our first bluebell this year; my Grandad’s favourite flower.

Lots of the walks I have done on my trip through Wales have been recommended by friends who I met on my Jordan trip and who I was lucky enough to visit and spend the loveliest of evenings with on Easter Saturday. They treated me to delicious food  and it was a real pleasure to spend time chatting and feeling the warmth and love of their beautiful home - a huge, heartfelt thanks Del and Len. I loved seeing the dramatic coastline south of where they live, walking from Southerndown to Nash Point and another lighthouse.

Castles have featured as coffee stops. I usually park up for free, (people who know me well know I hate paying for car parking,) make a coffee and photograph these formidable and sometimes fairytale like buildings. Visits have included Carreg Cennen, Caerphilly with it’s moat and Raglan, as well as the monastic ruins of Tintern Abbey. The drive to Tintern was one through lush, green Welsh valleys. It was beautiful and definitely told me I was now in the south of the country. 

For those of you celebrating Easter, I hope you spent a great weekend doing the things you love with those you love. After a long walking and driving day on Easter Sunday, a small bag of double chocolate Easter eggs were demolished in the van whilst the rain and wind made its return outside. With a small, warm spaniel laying sound asleep next to me, a film to watch and tired legs, I couldn’t have wished to be anywhere else.

Views towards Skomer
South Stack, Pembrokeshire



Three Cliffs Bay walk
Abereiddy to Porthgain walk, Pembrokeshire
Carreg Cennen
Rhossili Bay, Gower
Tenby

Saundersfoot

Freshwater West
Bishopston Valley

Tintern Abbey











Friday, 31 March 2023

Water, Water Everywhere!

We made it to the end of what has to have been our wettest month by far. I’m updating this blog from a very wet and windy campsite near to St Davids in Pembrokeshire. I can say the coastline looks nothing like the glossy tourist guides and leaflets today! It is grey with low cloud everywhere and almost horizontal rain that hasn’t stopped all day. On days like today I am grateful for my book basket, my kettle and wifi! I’m skipping between a few books at the moment, one I picked up just yesterday at a National Trust secondhand book shop. 

Water seems to have been a theme this week with more coastal walking near Aberystwyth and Aberaeron, waterfalls near Devil’s Bridge, the impressive Rhaeadr Ddu Falls in Gwynedd hidden in a moss and lichen covered forest, and the insanely beautiful views over Llyn Cau on our hike up Cadair Idris.

The highlight was definitely Cadair Idris. The day was just stunning and at times I was in sunglasses and short sleeves. We met some amazing people on the hike with yet again incredible stories for what had brought them there. One chap was walking up to collect a remembrance plaque for restoration which was in memorial for his best friend, who had died suddenly with no warning from an undiagnosed heart condition. He loved the mountain hence why his friends and family had the plaque placed there. The second man was a former fire officer, who had retired after working in the morgues during COVID and had recognised signs in himself that he associated with PTSD. He stopped work and set himself the challenge of climbing all 188 mountains (over 2000ft) in Wales. He had already managed over 130 of them. We talked lots about the healing powers of nature and walking. He also wanted to adopt Poppy as his hiking companion - she was on her best behaviour that day!

Luckily when a friend made the journey from Norfolk to spend a few days exploring with us, the weather was fairly kind to us. We went to see the Red Kites feeding, enjoyed a pub lunch or two and had (mostly) dry walks. I also enjoyed the luxury of a washing machine in the Air b & b and washed EVERYTHING! Simple luxuries!

Thank you for the adventures March, roll on April…with hopefully sunnier days.

St Davids




Rhaeadr Ddu waterfall


Cadair Idris
Devil’s Bridge
Cadair Idris
Red Kite feeding

Coastal walking Aberaeron to New Quay
Precipice Walk



Llyn Cau, Cafair Idris




Aberaeron