Yorkshire 3 Peaks

Despite the weather forecast being wet, my stubborn side wanted to give the three peaks of Whernside, Ingleborough and Pen-y-Ghent a go. The challenge is to walk the route in 12 hours or less. 

So I started out from near the Ribblehead Viaduct, first climbing Whernside, which was a steep-ish climb up to the ridge. The rain and wind came at me and by the time I reached the trig point I thought maybe one peak would do for today. 

The rain persisted on my descent but stopped momentarily so I could see Ingleborough. After munching through an apple and cereal bar, it didn’t seem too far. How wrong I was! The climb up the near vertical zig zag path up to the trig point with the rain returning was a great challenge.

The descent down to reach Horton in Ribblesdale seemed to take me ages even though it was relatively easy going, if a little muddy and slippery in places. If there was ever a place to lift your spirits on a 24 mile walk climbing three peaks, the Church of St Oswald is it! With the rain still coming down and a sign outside the church saying ‘make yourself a cuppa, church open,’ in I went. Not only was there a kettle to make tea or coffee but also CAKE! After a mug of coffee (which I hugged to warm my hands,) a slice of Dutch apple cake and a chocolate shortbread wrapped up to take back to the van, I popped a donation in the box and felt another peak was more than do-able.

A beautiful stretch of the walk was alongside the beck leaving the village. The sun briefly appeared too for my ascent to the trig point on Pen-y-Ghent. There is a short scramble near the top which was fun, although longer legs would have been an advantage!

So, all three peaks managed! However, after the third, it’s still over seven miles of walking back to the start point and for each mile, yes, you guessed, the rain returned to keep me company, deciding to get even heavier about a mile from the van. Great! I smiled when I saw Roo parked up just beyond the viaduct, 8 and a half hours after I’d left her.

For anyone thinking of walking it, just do it. I did no planning, just read a couple of blog posts and downloaded a pdf map, which I didn’t really need as it’s so well signed. 

My evening is being spent at a campsite, enjoying a hot shower, veggie chilli and that chocolate shortbread I mentioned earlier with a cuppa. Heaven. Oh, and I’ve been joined by sunshine and a blue sky. Typical! 

I hope you’ve all enjoyed whatever adventures you’ve had today too.

Heading Home

 A return to Norfolk for auntie duties and some time to enjoy things I do miss once on the road - catching up with family and friends over cake or meals, celebrating birthdays, running with my lovely running group, walks with four legged friends and home cooked meals involving an oven, (now a luxury to me!)

Norfolk shall always be home but returning made me reflect on what ‘home’ actually means. To me it is a place that will always seem familiar, particularly if locations are linked to childhood memories (the woods, the beaches, the footpaths,) but not necessarily a house. One definition says it’s the ‘place you live permanently’ but at the moment I would like to permanently stay being nomadic in my van! 

As I leave the East coast sunshine behind and head north to continue adventures in Scotland, my home on wheels has everything I need: food, warmth, books, coffee and gas for the stove. Let’s hope the sun follows me too!

West to East

Our last few days in Wales were spent hiking up Cnicht in Snowdonia and Cadair Berwyn, the highest point in the Berwyn mountain range as well as more relaxed walks to Fairy Glen near Betws y Coed and the beautiful Llyn Tegid in Bala. 

Leaving the peaks and waterfalls behind us, a drive across the country took us to Cambridge where a stroll around Grantchester, through the meadows and along the River Cam brought us into the city with its historic colleges. 

And tomorrow we are Norfolk bound! 

Back to the Mountains

Like a magnet Snowdonia drew me back. Definitely my favourite area of Wales I think, although I have loved it all. Maybe it’s growing up in Norfolk in such a flat landscape that makes mountains seem so infectious to walk up, I don’t know. I do love hiking up them though.  

I have been up Snowdon before, but wanted to do it again on a different path. This was a walk of two very different halves. The first two hours I saw just two cyclists as I headed up past Foel Goch and over the summit of Cynghorion in the clouds. As there was also a herd of cattle right on the path, we also negotiated a barbed wire fence on the way up and a slight detour to get around them safely! It was only on the descent out of the clouds that the Rangers Path with lots of people who looked so tiny came into view. It reminded me of the old computer game Lemmings, as they disappeared up the path and back into the cloud on the climb up to Snowdon’s summit.

At the top by the trig point, it was (as expected) shrouded in cloud and ridiculously busy, so I didn’t hang around but instead headed for the Miner’s track to descend and find a quiet spot for lunch. Back in Llanberis it was time for rewards - cider in the sun, chocolate and coffee and back at the campsite a glorious, hot shower! 

We also then walked up Moel Siabod the following day, which was a totally different experience as only saw a handful of other walkers and yet the scenery was still magnificent. The delicious, late cafe lunch complete with a Black Forest style cake was very welcome afterwards.

Before our loop back to the peaks in the north, we drove through and walked a route in the Elan Valley from Rhayader. A very industrial landscape with the huge dams and Victorian engineering on display. In complete contrast, on a beautiful, blue-sky day, we found ourselves at Powis Castle, just outside Welshpool, where the gardens were full of colour and the air was filled with that wonderful smell of freshly mown grass. By chance there was an exhibition on by Kaffe Fassett inside the castle of his stunning quilt designs. 

As May approaches I am coming towards the end of my time in Wales, as a brief visit back to Norfolk calls. I have again felt very fortunate to spend time amongst its forests, along the coastline and especially in the mountains. We have also cherished being joined by friends on walks, meeting new friends and again for people’s kindness in sharing their homes and driveways with us.

From an afternoon napping spaniel and I, we hope everyone reading is well and that you have adventures planned for all the bank holidays coming up. 

Claerwen Dam, the one Richard Hammond drove a Landrover up!

Snowdon summit

Powis Castle gardens

Snowdon, Miners Path descent 

Montgomery Canal towards Welshpool

Moel Siabod hike, Snowdonia 

A swim below Snowdon 

Claerwen Dam

Snowdon horseshoe route

View from walking up Moel Siabod

The King’s Forest

Powis Castle

Lake Vrnwy

Kaffe Fassett quilting exhibition, Powis Castle

Looking down at walkers on the Snowdon Rangers Path

Kaffe Fassett quilting exhibition, Powis Castle

Snowdon fun!

Lake Vrnwy

Powis Castle