Magic on Mull

I may have only been here a few days but it feels like a lot longer. Maybe that’s the island pace of life? I filled my days with hiking Mull’s only munro, a walk out to the spectacular Carsaig sea arches, visiting the beautiful beaches and enjoying spectacular sunsets with only the sheep and oyster catchers for company. A rather inquisitive ewe woke me after my first night by having a good rub on the side of the van! 

I also took a boat out to Staffa and was lucky to see the puffins and visit Fingal’s Cave, which is incredible. 

A visit to the island wouldn’t have been complete without seeing colourful Tobermory where I met two bikers who were also huge Formula 1 fans. We spent a happy evening talking everything F1 - they just came back from the Monaco Grand Prix, so I have all their tips for when I can afford to go!

An unexpected encounter during my island roaming was to see Neil, a chap I met on the ferry who said he lived in a cabin in the woods. I was given vague directions but found it easily. It was amazing to see off-grid living in action with a tour of the forest thrown in. A huge stag jumped out from the trees and crossed the path in front of me - such beauty! I also spotted a lady at Calgary Bay looking up at a soaring bird of prey. She kindly let me borrow her binoculars to marvel at the golden eagle! I had wanted to see one since arriving on Mull, so as it was my final morning it made my day. It was also her children’s first time at the beach after her eldest was born in lockdown. Watching him mesmerised and laughing at paddling in the water gave me the biggest smile. 

So, it’s back to sunny Oban today after a magical stay on Mull.

 

West Highland Way

Packed and re-packed a few times, lifting my bag and thought ‘that feels OK.’ Then I added the 2.5 litres of water and suddenly it was a LOT heavier! You can pay for baggage transfer so you can just walk with a day pack, but I’m stubborn and also like to do things the hard way!

I was going to write a bit about each day but there are so many books out there with suggested itineraries and about the route that instead I’ll just give you my take on the walk.

First, the highlights: 

• Glorious weather
• Staying in hostels and hearing different languages spoken over breakfast
• Chatting to other travellers on the way
• The scenery - from Loch Lomond to the majesty of Buachaille Etive Mór
• Sharing tea at the pub with new folk each night
• The first cold beer/cider on reaching your destination (always tastes the best!)
• Taking time to sit and soak up the views
• The sweet scent of the bluebells 
• The shade of walking through the forests
• Soaking hot feet in cold streams
• No blisters!

And the things the photos don’t show:

• Midges! I’m covered in bites!
• The heat - after a shower you feel clean for all of 10 minutes - layer of sun cream, followed by insect spray, followed by sweating all day. Nice!
• Most of the way is on rocky/gravel paths and by the end of each day you can feel each stone and crave some grass to walk on.

What did I learn? That next time I do a point to point trail I will think about investing in a tent to give me the freedom to walk the distance I’d like each day rather than be tied to a set destination. I also learnt that carrying a bigger pack in hot temperatures slows me down, a lot! 

A wee dram of whiskey to celebrate in Fort William last night and reflect on how grateful I am to have had the opportunity to walk this trail and to now have some terrific memories of this part of Scotland.