On the Edge

Surprising, laid-back, unknown. Three words to describe this short exploration of Armenia and Georgia, two countries positioned on the edge of Europe. 

Why surprising? Before I came I’m not sure I could’ve told you about either country’s cuisine, but it’s full of delicious (not particularly healthy) dishes and treats. Pastries freshly baked with walnuts, cheese filled bread called khachapuri, often fried and brushed with melted butter, potato filled dumplings, pancakes with homemade apricot jam and salty corn bread.

I was also surprised to learn that Armenia was the first country to adopt Christianity as its state religion in 301 AD and therefore there are many Christian monasteries and Orthodox churches to visit, some in the most picturesque settings. 

After the overwhelming constant bustle and noise of Egypt last month, these two countries felt relaxed. People were never rushing, drivers were polite (the use of the horn was non-existent compared to Egypt!) Both countries were so clean and green with tree-lined streets and avenues, city gardens tended to, capital cities which come to life in the evenings with people enjoying the cooler temperatures, sitting in the squares enjoying coffee or ice cream. People don’t start work until 10am and museums and attractions don’t open until 10am, so again a huge contrast to the 5am get-ups in Egypt. You found yourself simply slowing down, never in a rush and always time for coffee!

When I told some people where I was going, some were not too sure where Armenia or Georgia was. Their second question was ‘is it safe?’ My answer is that yes, it is safe. English is widely spoken so communication is easy, food is delicious and cheap and if you’re not sure about exploring unknown places it really can be very eye-opening. For me, seeing Georgia’s mountains makes me want to return. They are rugged, snow-capped and the mountain villages look like great places to stay. 

The guides I had during my time in both countries were passionate, had great knowledge of their history and tried to explain what life had been and was currently like living between Europe and Asia, ‘on the edge,’ transit countries. I hope for the people I met that their future is a bright one and they can continue to share their countries with visitors.

Ancient Wonders

You know you’re back in Europe when you can flush toilet paper down the toilet and enjoy a good flat white. That was me yesterday with three flights to get me home after an exhausting, pretty overwhelming but incredible two weeks in Egypt. 

It’s one of those topics at primary school that I think most people remember if they did it; Ancient Egypt. The world of pharaohs, mummification, pyramids and hieroglyphics. I remember being totally captivated by it, so to be standing in front of the pyramids in Giza and then to have the option to actually climb and walk inside one of them was something I never imagined I would do.

As well as the pyramids, I visited Abu Simbel, Karnak temple, cruised down the Nile on a felucca, visited the temple of Kom Ombo lit up at night and explored the Valley of the Kings. Walking into Tutankhamun’s tomb, seeing the brightly coloured baboons painted on the wall and standing in front of his mummified body was a day I shall never forget. It seemed unreal to be looking at the actual body of the boy king and also to think what it must have been like to be Howard Carter discovering the tomb back in 1922. He recorded in his diary that he found the first step on 4 November (my birthday!) The photographs and artefacts in the Cairo museum help to tell the story of the greatest archeological find.

Ancient wonders, tasty falafel, intense heat and a great bunch of people with an archaeologist as our guide to explore and learn about this fascinating country with. What a memorable trip!