Day 1: left the comforts of Santa Marta behind for an early start to reach Machete Pelao for a filling breakfast before the 12km we would cover today. The first few hours were steep, dusty uphill sections, but with views of a lush green landscape and mountains meeting the sea. With over 80% humidity, the sweat poured off all of us! The lunch stop and snack stops of juicy watermelon were very welcome and replenished our energy.
Day 2: up at 5am and today we had some big uphill climbs as well as some downhill sections which were tough on the toes. The route took us along beautiful shady paths through the jungle, with giant trees and hanging vines - it was like Jurassic Park and I half expected a brontosaurus to come wandering into view! Welcome stops today included a river to plunge hot feet in, as well as a stop shared with the military (who now ‘guard’ the trail) for our fruit snack of sweet pineapple and oranges. Today was just as hot as the first and we all continually sweated, so a huge late lunch of pasta with salty cheese was one of the tastiest meals ever! A freezing cold shower and afternoon siesta (which I unknowingly shared with a giant bug called a machaca in my mosquito net) followed by ‘afternoon tea’ of hot popcorn & coffee made for a great end to the day.
Day 3: today was the day! After another great breakfast of fresh fruit and cheese arepas (flat corn breads,) we were off walking again. First a river crossing, then the 1200 steps up to the Lost City entrance. We had a spiritual ceremony to ask for permission to enter and then had the privelidge of exploring this ancient world hidden in this incredible landscape. Simply unforgettable.
Day 4: a short walk to a waterfall after breakfast for swimming and paddling to sooth the mosquito bites before an early lunch of soup, rice & plantain to power us through the three hour walk on steep up and down sections to our camp for the night. My legs were super tired today and I will admit I was very relieved to arrive at camp, especially for the chocolate cake & fresh berry juice we had when we got there! We were treated to a soft pink sunset over the valley whilst we waited for dinner and by 8pm I was fast asleep in my top bunk under my mosquito net.
Day 5: an early start to beat the heat, we headed out across undulating grassy hills, passing local homes and descending down to gentle streams on the way to the Gotsezhi community, where local men and women prepared a delicious lunch for us. We also learned more about the life and traditions of the Wiwa people including having a blessing from their shaman & seeing how they use the natural environment to make handicrafts. I also had to smile to myself as I watched a group of children playing football and another child climb up a tree & disappear into the canopy - not so different to children back in my neck of the woods.
Hopefully this gives you a flavour of the trek, but what I can’t put into words is the amazing group of people I was so fortunate to share this adventure with. The conversations, the card games, the friendship and most importantly the laughter made my final week in South America the best it could be.
Finally, why did I say ‘blood, sweat and tears’ in the title of this post? Well, the Colombian mosquitos definitely enjoyed my blood and I have NEVER sweat this much in my life! On reaching the Lost City we were asked to leave all negativity behind and our short group ceremony brought me to shed a few tears. There are certain places on Earth that have moved me spiritually and this was definitely one of them; a truly special place.
It sounds like such an amazing, uplifting, spiritual adventure you are having. So pleased you are enjoying every minute of your time there.
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