Wednesday, 11 February 2026

City Steps

After being in mountains for so long, Buenos Aires was a slight shock to the system. It was hot (over 30 degrees most days,) roads heavy with traffic and as in a lot of big cities, you need to be vigilant and think about your bag! Two girls in my hostel had their phones stolen and another had a necklace cut off from around her neck! 

During my week in the city, I explored a few of the neighbourhoods - Monserrat (where I stayed,) Recoleta (to visit the cemetery and the grave of Eva Peron,) San Telmo (for the markets) and Puerto Madero which reminded me a bit of London’s Southbank at night. I joined walking tours with local guides in Monserrat and the cemetery and both were fantastic. I enjoyed food in Puerto Madero with new hostel friends and found sanctuary from the busy city in cafes and book shops in San Telmo. 

The architecture reminds you of beautiful European cities in France and Italy and when many of the grand buildings were built at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century this was indeed what the city wanted to emulate. I visited Colon Theatre for a tour and wandered around El Ateneo, one of the world’s most beautiful bookshops housed in a former theatre.  The tree lined avenues provided much needed shade and greenery in an otherwise quite ‘gritty’ city.

I will return to Buenos Aires before my flight back to Europe and have chosen to stay in Palermo, so hopefully I will have time to explore one more neighbourhood. 

Would it make it on my top ten cities in the world? No. But, I don’t think any South American city would and I think we’re spoilt for cities in Europe. South America for me is about big landscapes and natural beauty. 

I’m sure I’ll be back again one day and I think it’s like any city, when you return it never seems quite as daunting as it did the first time. For now though, I’m being called back to mountains at the very tip of the continent…








































Thursday, 5 February 2026

Crossing the border (for a day!)

An hour by ferry from Buenos Aires lies Colonia in Uruguay making it the perfect day trip from the city. I immediately loved it! It felt hotter, greener, quieter with much less traffic but more birdsong and people smiled (I forgot in big cities people don’t tend to smile!) 

The architecture is a real mix of Portuguese and Spanish that exist side by side. You have to watch your step on some of the original cobbled streets, but I honestly wandered up and down streets adorned with colourful flowers, busy little cafes and time seemed to just slow down. There were bakeries to find some lunch, a main plaza to enjoy a spot in the shade under the eucalyptus trees and rooftop cafes looking out over the water. I was quite envious of an American couple I had met on the ferry who were staying for a couple of days to recover from their busy days in Buenos Aires. 

If Colonia is a small taste of Uruguay, then I’m definitely returning. Beautiful!