Leaving the Lakes behind, the second part of the walk would take us across the dales on our Coast to Coast journey. We met a fell runner on our way down to Grasmere on day 3 and when I said I would be sad to leave the stunning Lakeland scenery behind, she said, ‘oh but wait til you reach the dales it’s beautiful!’ So my expectations were raised as we left the high fells behind, crossed over the M6 and made our way through the heather and past stone walled fields dotted with sheep.
Day 5 was long in distance (20 miles) but over gently undulating countryside, with grass (not rock) underfoot and with a group of four fellow coast to coasters, two Australians, two Brits and a gorgeous spaniel called Alba for company, the miles seemed to simply slip by and before we knew it, we had reached Kirkby Stephen. Pure luxury that evening in our own air b & b and a large Co-op in town to peruse all manner of treats, along with a washing machine! We would be fresh as daisies by the following morning!
From Kirkby Stephen, a 12 mile stretch under blue skies took us to Keld via the beautiful village of Hartley and up, sweating, to Nine Standards Rigg. Boy what a view! We could still see the distant peaks we had left behind in Cumbria. This section, as you officially cross into Yorkshire used to be a really challenging navigation bit of the walk across the peat bogs. My old guidebook has six pages dedicated to it! Now however as a national trail, you simply follow the flagstones, or ‘the yellow brick road’ as I called it and just enjoy the views, whilst being grateful for the people that lifted and laid the incredible, winding path. Even better, is after leaving the path and descending down the dale you reach Ravenseat Farm. This is home to Amanda, ‘The Yorkshire Shepherdess,’ the star of the TV show set on the farm and author whose books I have read. As I was queueing in the farmyard to order our much anticipated cream teas, Amanda sped into the yard on her quad bike in a summer dress with her Irish Wolfhound in tow. I was slightly starstruck and randomly waved at her! We saw her daughters riding their horses, she had a chat with us and we enjoyed this idyllic spot for a while before ambling into Keld where an evening meal was waiting for us and possibly the lowest bunk bed I will sleep in!
Day 7 arrived and yet more incredible sunshine. How lucky are we?! This was to be a long day with 22 miles to cover, our longest on trail. For much of the beginning section (on the low route) we walked alongside the River Swale, which was stunning. Nothing but sheep for company, a handy stile made for two perfect seats for our coffee break and onwards into the pretty town of Reeth for a late lunch break. After Reeth, another kind farmer had put up detour signs round her cows (phew) so it wasn’t long before we reached the woodlands above Richmond and with the help of an hour of Wham’s greatest hits playing, we made it to our bed for the night. The luxury of a hot shower and a picnic spread on the bed from the Co-op with a bit of tv was all we had the energy for.
Days 8 and 9 were to be quite uneventful. It was simple walking, through fields, level ground with not a lot to shout about. We did have sunshine, we did see lots of colour with fields of flowers, we were accompanied by the singing from the sparrows in the hedgerows and amazingly the cattle we encountered were all in fenced fields. Small things that are much appreciated.
We find ourselves this afternoon in Ingleby Cross, a tiny hamlet with a pub five minutes walk away for our supper tonight and the promise of the North York Moors tomorrow. How can I sum up walking through the dales? Green, tranquil, remote farmhouses, the constant noise of the sheep, very few people and gorgeous, little villages. Returning to what the fell runner said, yes the dales have been stunning but for me they don’t beat the lakes.
Thanks for reading. Onto the moors!
