The first question people usually ask when you say you’re going to walk 192 miles is ‘why?’ As I packed ready to move house a couple of months ago, I came across my little Coast to Coast guide book that many years before I had bought with the intention of walking it. Then COVID happened, Dad died and the book sat forgotten. May half term came along this year and I headed with Poppy to the Lakes to walk a few bits of the route on day hikes to see how her paws would hold up. We had a heatwave that week and although we both walked a fair few miles and ticked a few Wainwright’s, my decision was made. I was doing it dog-less. The question was, was anyone else up for joining me? Well, surprisingly yes! A friend who I run with and sometimes spend a morning on a walk with a coffee had for some reason decided she could spend two weeks with me walking across England. It was on!
Part 1 takes you through the Lake District from St Bees to Shap. Those of you that read my ramblings on here regularly will know I’m slightly in love with this part of the world. The fells, the lakeland villages, the hard climbs, the hidden tarns…it’s a truly special place.
We began with the obligatory start photo, collected our pebble (mine is the size and shape of a chocolate mini egg) and dipped our boots in the sea, before heading on the diversion path towards Sandwith (due to a landslide along the coast.) We were soon in t shirts, sweating as we started the climb up Dent Hill. The views from the top were worth it - all the way across to Scotland and the distinct outline of the Isle of Man. After a snack break and coffee (very important) we descended (steeply) and made our way through to Ennerdale Bridge where we had another break for tea and ice cream before the final, slightly long walk along Ennerdale Water onto the YHA to find steaming bowls of delicious chilli and our bunk beds for the night.
Day 2 took us onto one of my favourite places, Borrowdale via a long but incredibly beautiful climb up Loft Beck and into Honnister Slate Mine. My top memories of the day were the great views of Pillar, a cuppa at Black Sail YHA and after a wet descent, a bowl of soup at the Slate Mine Cafe before reaching my favourite hostel in Rosthwaite where more trail friends were made.
The big one. Day 3. Basically two sections in one day that every book, guide, etc suggests not doing as it is a hard, long day. For me, this has been my favourite day so far (and I think it will be hard to beat.) We began in the rain, so full waterproofs on as we climbed steadily towards Greenup Edge negotiating quite a few water crossings. These were not easy after two nights of very heavy rain. The real challenge though is finding your way up Lining Crag. I have done it once before with Poppy in beautiful sunshine, but it’s a very different thing going up slippery rocks, practically like a waterfall into cloud at the top. Never has a coffee from our little flask and a protein bar been needed more once we got to the top! From there, the clouds cleared and by the time we had dropped into Grasmere surrounded by so much green, we had a blue sky and were ready for a delicious lunch at my favourite cafe, Mathilde.
Most sensible folk would stop there, enjoy seeing Grasmere and rest weary feet. Nope, not for us, as we headed up Tongue Gill towards Grisedale Tarn. Stunning views that make you feel so small and the sun making everything look splendid, what more could you want? Possibly not a rather long and rocky descent down to Patterdale, but with clear views of the mountains on both sides and a wonderful evening light it was hard not to feel grateful. An episode of ‘Desert Island Discs’ played on my phone, a few jelly babies and the promise to my friend of a hot bath when we got there brought us safely, if wearily to the door of our B & B. 10 hours of walking, 18 miles and our biggest ascent and descent done, all in one day. Never has a pot noodle and some salty crisps tasted so good before disappearing under the duvet for a well deserved sleep.
Day 4 and the most beautiful, blue sky greeted us. Heather, our landlady made sure we were fuelled up with a great breakfast before we walked out to rejoin our path up to Angle Tarn. The feeling as those first rays of sunshine hit your face is something to feel so thankful for. With the warmth and the promise of some spectacular views for our coffee spot by the tarn, we made great progress on the climb up.
After the tarn, things only got more beautiful (and steeper.) Up to our highest point on the original C2C, to the summit of Kidsty Pike. Breathtaking. We paused and took it in, enjoying a huge wave of satisfaction. After the high of the summit however, the downward route to reach Shap became a bit of a slog. Tired legs from the day before and the heat from the sun seemed to be slowing us down. The ‘trail angels’ who filled an honesty box with drinks and flapjacks on Haweswater will never know how much of a difference they make to weary walkers. Thank you!
Arrived (finally) into Shap by 6pm, chips from the chippy for supper and a wonderful bed in a Jacobean house built in 1691 was the perfect treat for the end of the hardest section through the Lake District.
If you’ve stuck with me, thanks for reading. Apologies that the photos have all appeared in a random order below! I hope they give you a flavour of our journey through this remarkable landscape though.
