Coast to Coast - the Moors

We awoke to yet more dry weather and the hint of sunshine as we left Ingleby Cross and headed up to the heather covered moors and some amazing views from Carlton Bank. Breezy on top and a steep, stony descent via some steps brought us to the delightful cafe at Lordstones. A well earned break before trekking up and through some very tall bracken and yet more purples and pinks of the heather towards the ‘three sisters’ as they are called, including the Wainstones. Despite the forecast, we didn’t need waterproofs (luckily) but were sweating a lot as the air was so humid. 

A night at the Lion Inn at Blakey Ridge, the 4th most remote pub in England was a comfortable way to end the day, especially after a huge evening meal there - be warned the portion sizes leave no room for pudding!

Day 11 and a glance outside the window and a peek at the weather forecast was a little uninspiring. Heavy, thundery rain showers were heading our way. After breakfast and readying the daypacks (we get quicker each morning with all the prep,) we set off in waterproofs only to strip off 15 minutes down the road as we dropped down out of the mist and cloud. We wouldn’t need them for the rest of the day…well almost. 

We followed a gradually descending track down with the sun burning off the mist to reveal views of patchwork fields and moorland painted pink. Counting ourselves very lucky that the rain seemed to be nowhere in sight, we headed merrily through Glaisdale and Egton Bridge to arrive at Grosmont Station just as the steam train was set to leave. Such a cool thing to see! Another delicious lunch break whilst kicking off the boots and socks to let the feet cool and then it was the steepest climb of the last few days. Up, up, up out of Grosmont onto Sleights Moor with the sun beating down and black clouds rumbling with thunder chasing us. BUT…we could see the sea! The North Sea! The last time we had seen the sea, it was the Irish Sea. That glimpse of the coast, the silhouette of Whitby Abbey on the horizon and the sky getting ever darker spurred us onto Littlebeck where we were staying for the night. 

The last ten minutes of day 11 were slightly more stressful than anticipated. After avoiding the cattle thus far, we came across three, massive pregnant, black cows, who apparently had jumped the stone wall right into our path! What’s more, the rain arrived. Brilliant! A quick call to the farmer we were staying with and some detour directions soon had us in her farmhouse kitchen with a pot of tea and homemade cake as the heavens opened. Phew!

Waking up on the last day (day 12 for us) we set off early-ish again as there was more rain forecast later in the day. A beautiful start to the morning meandering through Little Beck Wood with views of Falling Foss waterfall down below us before a long stretch of moorland that had been devastated by wildfires last year. It was hard not to stop and stare at how fire has completely changed the landscape, although what cheered us up was the birdsong from stonechats along the way, who clearly were still finding a way to live here.

Once we joined the road, we came across our coffee break stop, a fantastic honesty shop caravan! Refreshed, we seemed to cover the steep ups and downs of the coast path towards the Bay with renewed determination and before long found ourselves arriving at the famous sign on the wall of the Bay Hotel. We had done it! Walk completed! 

A celebratory drink at Wainwright’s Bar and sweaty hugs with other coast to coast finishers as they came in, some who we’d crossed paths with before was the perfect end before we had to walk back up the hill in search of lunch (and cake) and then along the cliff top another half a mile to reach the YHA at Boggle Hole.

If you’ve followed our journey, I hope you’ve enjoyed it. And if you’ve ever wanted to walk this trail, DO IT. We did next to no training (my friend was on a relaxing river cruise the week before,) no preparation (I bought a map) and booked everything ourselves about six weeks before we walked it! Enjoy a few of my photos and…happy hiking!

Coast 2 Coast - the Dales

Leaving the Lakes behind, the second part of the walk would take us across the dales on our Coast to Coast journey. We met a fell runner on our way down to Grasmere on day 3 and when I said I would be sad to leave the stunning Lakeland scenery behind, she said, ‘oh but wait til you reach the dales it’s beautiful!’ So my expectations were raised as we left the high fells behind, crossed over the M6 and made our way through the heather and past stone walled fields dotted with sheep.

Day 5 was long in distance (20 miles) but over gently undulating countryside, with grass (not rock) underfoot and with a group of four fellow coast to coasters, two Australians, two Brits and a gorgeous spaniel called Alba for company, the miles seemed to simply slip by and before we knew it, we had reached Kirkby Stephen. Pure luxury that evening in our own air b & b and a large Co-op in town to peruse all manner of treats, along with a washing machine! We would be fresh as daisies by the following morning!

From Kirkby Stephen, a 12 mile stretch under blue skies took us to Keld via the beautiful village of Hartley and up, sweating, to Nine Standards Rigg. Boy what a view! We could still see the distant peaks we had left behind in Cumbria. This section, as you officially cross into Yorkshire used to be a really challenging navigation bit of the walk across the peat bogs. My old guidebook has six pages dedicated to it! Now however as a national trail, you simply follow the flagstones, or ‘the yellow brick road’ as I called it and just enjoy the views, whilst being grateful for the people that lifted and laid the incredible, winding path. Even better, is after leaving the path and descending down the dale you reach Ravenseat Farm. This is home to Amanda, ‘The Yorkshire Shepherdess,’ the star of the TV show set on the farm and author whose books I have read. As I was queueing in the farmyard to order our much anticipated cream teas, Amanda sped into the yard on her quad bike in a summer dress with her Irish Wolfhound in tow. I was slightly starstruck and randomly waved at her! We saw her daughters riding their horses, she had a chat with us and we enjoyed this idyllic spot for a while before ambling into Keld where an evening meal was waiting for us and possibly the lowest bunk bed I will sleep in!

Day 7 arrived and yet more incredible sunshine. How lucky are we?! This was to be a long day with 22 miles to cover, our longest on trail. For much of the beginning section (on the low route) we walked alongside the River Swale, which was stunning. Nothing but sheep for company, a handy stile made for two perfect seats for our coffee break and onwards into the pretty town of Reeth for a late lunch break. After Reeth, another kind farmer had put up detour signs round her cows (phew) so it wasn’t long before we reached the woodlands above Richmond and with the help of an hour of Wham’s greatest hits playing, we made it to our bed for the night. The luxury of a hot shower and a picnic spread on the bed from the Co-op with a bit of tv was all we had the energy for. 

Days 8 and 9 were to be quite uneventful. It was simple walking, through fields, level ground with not a lot to shout about. We did have sunshine, we did see lots of colour with fields of flowers, we were accompanied by the singing from the sparrows in the hedgerows and amazingly the cattle we encountered were all in fenced fields. Small things that are much appreciated.

We find ourselves this afternoon in Ingleby Cross, a tiny hamlet with a pub five minutes walk away for our supper tonight and the promise of the North York Moors tomorrow. How can I sum up walking through the dales? Green, tranquil, remote farmhouses, the constant noise of the sheep, very few people and gorgeous, little villages. Returning to what the fell runner said, yes the dales have been stunning but for me they don’t beat the lakes. 

Thanks for reading. Onto the moors!