Wednesday, 15 May 2024

Break in Bosnia

It’s amazing how much you can fit in to just a few days away. This time it was Bosnia and Herzegovina that I explored. A really easy to navigate city with a horrific recent history within my lifetime and the most stunning National parks with majestic mountains to rival those in Western Europe. After a short flight, I found myself just 20mins from the bustling city of Sarajevo, where the spire of the Cathedral and the minaret of the mosque shared the skyline. A free walking tour gave me my bearings in the Old Town before I headed up the hill to find my hostel. 

My two full days were spent exploring other places in the country including Konjic, Mostar, Blagaj, Kravice waterfalls and hiking in Sutjeska National Park. The weather was perfect and when I reached Trnovacko Lake (shaped like a heart,) an old man wandered out of a hut, checked our passports, poured a glass of pear brandy and went off to make coffee. It turned out I had just crossed the Bosnia/Montenegro border! The brandy and coffee were a great way to start the week!

On my final morning, I took the cable car in Sarajevo to see the now abanndonned bob sled track from the olympics. The forest is being left to grow around and over it and graffiti artists have adorned it with colour. 

A great taste of another Balkan country in just a few days! 






























Tuesday, 23 April 2024

Return to the Americas

‘Let’s go to Galapagos my girl?’ 
This was sent to me by a travel-loving friend and so my next destination was set. It wasn’t somewhere in the world I had ever thought of going, nor did I expect to ever get the chance to go, but this year keeps surprising. 

Our first couple of days in Ecuador were days of contrast. Blue skies, the heat of the sun at Otavalo market on the first day and snow showers climbing to the base camp on Cotopaxi, one of the world’s highest active volcanoes on the second. A friend had told me the hot chocolate at the refuge at 4,900m (16,000ft) was a definite must, and as I hugged the mug of warm, cinnamon infused chocolate, I realised he was absolutely right.

It’s true that we weren’t quite sure what to expect from Ecuador, as it was still in a state of emergency with the UK government advising against travel to certain areas.  The amazing guides and other people working in tourism there said what a crushing blow ‘fake news’ had had on their industry. Yes, there had been incidents leading to an increased police presence and a curfew in Quito at night, but we can only talk of our experience. As two solo females we felt safe, we felt the warmth and kindness of local people, who welcomed us happily.








From the colours of Otavalo market and the snow on Cotopaxi, we flew to the Galápagos Islands, landing at Baltra airport with the heat and humidity hitting us immediately as we stepped off the plane. Within the first half an hour we had seen iguanas, pelicans and crabs, as well as the most unbelievably turquoise coloured waters. It was to be a week of incredible wildlife including so many sea lions, Galápagos penguins (the smallest penguins in the world,) blue-footed boobies, stingrays, hammerhead sharks, turtles and of course tortoises. We were lucky enough to see tortoises in the wild and at breeding centres, where they are trying to help increase numbers of these endangered creatures.

The hiking was a challenge in the heat. On our visit to three different islands we walked to black sand beaches, climbed up to a caldera on a volcano, hiked to viewpoints across lava rock pathways and through cactus forests. Each one was different and worth the indescribable amount of sweating!

The islands were not like anywhere I have been before. Our trip allowed us to experience the lively island of Santa Cruz, which is the most populated, Isabella, the largest island and Floreana, which just one hundred people call home. Floreana was my favourite experience because we were hosted by families living on the island and it was so green and quiet. On reflection, I’m super glad I saw the islands this way rather than on a cruise. Firstly it’s a lot cheaper and it allowed for more hiking opportunities.




















On our return to Quito, we spent time on a walking tour, exploring the colourful markets, downtown area, cathedrals and admiring the architecture of a brothel (very unexpected!!)






Our final jaunt on this adventure was to Panama City. What a contrast! Congested city traffic, a distinctly wealthier country but luckily for us, wonderful National Parks with mountains, cloud forests and trails to explore. So we left the city behind and explored a few hidden gems in this country at the crossroads of the Americas with its incredible human engineering feat, the Panama Canal. Of course we also had to visit the canal and we were lucky enough to see a cruise ship pass through the Miraflores locks.

Our final unexpected encounter was to see sloths in the wild, so close. They really are amazing creatures; their long fur, claws, smiling faces. I was SO happy we saw them! A great way to end our Easter travels.